Automatic fabric handling apparatus

ABSTRACT

The present invention teaches the use of novel apparatus capable of automatically handling and working fabric to produce articles such as, but not limited to, belt loops. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, fabric scraps are trimmed to a selected width by means of a rotary cutting assembly; a top feeding assembly advances trimmed fabric, together with a buckram, to a folder; trimmed and folded fabric is thereafter bound by sewing or sealing, whereupon programmed pressure rolls advance the bound fabric to a slicer which cuts same at predetermined intervals in response to the programming of said pressure rolls. A plurality of features of this invention have particular applicability as attachments to existing sewing or sealing equipment. This will be more apparent after a reading of the following specification.

United States Patent 11 1 1111 3, Block 1 1 June 3, 1975 154] AUTOMATIC FABRIC H DLI 13111911111 /1933 NCISUH 83/5083 X APPARATUQ 211195.647 /1937 Mnnn 4 1 1 1 112/122 X 2.585.307 2 1952 Galkin 112/1212? [75] Inventor: Charles Block. North Bcllmorc.

Primary Exurnimw-Vv'erner H. Schroeder 73 Assignee; J h l i C n Arm/110 Age/1L or Firm-Paul .1. Sutton Hicksville, NY. 1221 Filed: Mar. 29, 1973 1571 ABSTRACT I The present invention teaches the use of novel apparalzl] 346070 tus capable of automatically handling and working fabric to produce articles such as, but not limited to. [52] US. Cl. Ill/121.27; 112/124; 112/126; belt loops. In a preferred embodiment of the inven- 112/214; 83/4254; 83/5083 tion fabric scraps are trimmed to a selected width by [51] Int. Cl 1. D051) 37/08 means of a rotary cutting assembly; a top feeding as- [581 Field of Search 1 l2/l21.27, 121.26. 124 sembly advances trimmed fabric, together with a 112/126. 122. 130. 129. 211. 214; 83/425 buckram, to a folder; trimmed and folded fabric is 425.4. 508.3, 592. 925 CC thereafter bound by sewing or sealing, whereupon programmed pressure rolls advance the bound fabric to a [56] References Cited slicer which cuts same at predetermined intervals in UNITED S ES PA response to the programming of said pressure rolls. A 276.860 5/1883 Morris 112 124 9 features of this f f Particular 317.41 5/1885 Robinson 112/124 appl'cabllly as auuchmems exmmg sewmg of seal- 5791132 3/1897 Allen a 5 112/126 s equipment This will be more apparent after 8 11155.319 3/1913 Chenoweth 112/124 reading of the following specification. 1.376.623 3/1921 Hughes, .lr...... 112/l21.27 X 1.841.867 1/1932 Wiegclmann 83/5083 28 Clam, 7 Drawmg Flgul'es I fi-fi "111 ETfi o i 4 8! r 1 3 75 II-1 65 72 7.9 s :4 t 1 05 I02 1 7/ 125 o 8070 1 9 ?r 9 4,0 .1= I [23 F i f W L 23 I 1028 122 l; 47 f 3? 1 o o q; 27 I04 e2 24 a" 1 39 34 1 12/ /a 7 y I 25 AUTOMATIC FABRIC HANDLING APPARATUS The present invention relates generally to the art of sewing and/or sealing machines, and more particularly to fully automatic apparatus and attachments therefor for making belt loops of the blind-stitch type.

A growing need exists in the soft goods industry for relatively inexpensive and reliable equipment which will accept random widths of scrap materials and fabrics from a cutting room and which will automatically perform a number of successive operations, namely: (1) trim the fabric along two sides to a predetermined width; (2) automatically feed the trimmed fabric through a folding device, thereby creating a folded tubular shape; (3) sew or seal the folded shape, usually a flattened belt loop configuration with or without an inserted media (stiffening backram); and (4) measure and cut predetermined lengths of the finished product.

Over the past twenty or so years, efforts of the Joseph Galkin Corporation, for example, to accomplish these ends have resulted in the production of equipment and attachments for use with two-needle chainstitch and blindstitch sewing machines. Attachments known as front belt loop trimmers have been coupled with a device marketed under the name cut-o-meter, which pulls the finished goods being worked at a mechanically synchronized rate and booth measures and cuts pieces to a selected length. Despite these efforts, the designs that have evolved are not without limitations and faults. Examples of drawbacks and limitations of prior art or existing equipment are as follows:

The operating speeds of conventional equipment known to the art are limited to 2400 cycles per minute despite the fact that sewing equipment marketed today can achieve 5500 cycles per minute. Thus, the owner of this sewing equipment cannot presently realize the potential of his equipment as a result of these speed limitations.

The installations of conventional attachments to sewing machines, for example, that are known to the art is a rather complex procedure, requiring highly skilled labor and making field installations difficult or impossible. The synchronizing adjustments necessary to adapt a conventional belt loop trimmer and a cut-o-meter to a sewing machine are difficult and must be precise.

Conventional equipment and attachments do not enable the rapid and easy changing of finished product widths, but rather require a relatively long shut-down ofa machine so that parts can be changed and readjustment can be made. This use of different parts allows their misplacement and further requires more highly skilled technical personnel to make the change. Similarly, in order to alter the cut lengths of finished product in conventional equipment and attachments, one must stay within a (2:1) range of approximately 2% inches to 5% inches, with the same necessity to change parts.

With changes in fashion designs, a demand/exists for greater variations of belt loop widths than the 5/16 inch and 3/4 inch widths familiar to us. Equipment known to the art cannot fulfill this need. Similarly, any change in stitch size in conventional devices requires a complete re-synchronization by the user.

As for conventional cutting mechanisms used to cut the finished product (such as belt loop tubular product) into selected lengths, these mechanisms are only able to accommodate limited widths of product travel ing at rather limited speeds. Also, conventional attachments have not been marketed to cooperate with fusing or sealing apparatus, but have been limited to use with sewing equipment. The above limitations and disadvantages of prior art equipment are well known to people associated with the industry.

The present invention contemplates the elimination of most of all of these limitations and disadvantages of conventional solutions to recognized needs of the art, by providing novel apparatus, attachments, methods, and intercooperation of all three. Accordingly, it is an object of my invention to provide relatively inexpensive and reliable apparatus for automatically handling and working fabric.

Another object of the present invention is to provide novel means for trimming excess and unwanted portions from a strip of fabric.

Yet another object of this invention is to provide novel top-feed means for advancing fabric to the said trimming means as well through a folder and to and directly adjacent the foot of a sewing machine.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a novel pulling assembly driven independently of the sewing machine to which it may be attached for ad' vancing trimmed, folded and sewn material from the needle of a sewing machine, for example, to a slicer. It is within the scope of the present invention to provide a programmable pulling assembly capable of generating a signal which, when received, will result in the slic ing or cutting fabric in predetermined lengths.

A yet further object of my invention is to provide novel slicing or cutting means responsive to the said programmable pulling assembly for slicing fabric, such as in the form of belt loop material, at predetermined intervals.

Still another object of this invention is to provide any one or more of the above-mentioned assemblies as independent attachments to a variety of classes of sewing machines or binding/sealing machines.

Yet another object of this invention is to provide a dispenser capable of discharging fabric or material, such as in the form of belt loop material, in predetermined or selected lengths in response to a simple signal generated by a foot pedal, for example.

A further object of my invention is to provide an overall system and apparatus, together with and made up of novel components thereof, capable of automatically producing fabric products such as, without limitation, belt loops at rates of 6,000 cycles per minute with sewing equipment, or at the rate of feet per minute with fusing or sealing equipment.

A yet further object of my invention is to provide the system and components described in the preceding paragraph in modular form such that field installations and adjustments are made relatively easy for relatively unskilled labor.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a rotary cutting assembly for trimming the sides of fabric being fed into sewing or fusing equipment and which is modular and capable of being adjusted for variations of the width of the material being trimmed, without the need for changing parts or providing any other than relatively minor adjustments.

Yet another object of this invention is to provide a rotary cutting assembly as aforesaid, in which rotary blades or knives exhibit rotary shear at unusually high speeds such that reliability and versatility unknown to the prior art is realized. The problem and limitations associated with existing or conventional oscillating blade designs are overcome.

It is yet another object of this invention to provide a top feed assembly which includes a flexible continuous feeding belt having favorable low inertia characteristics and capable of guiding and advancing soft goods in restricted areas, such as through folding gages. In a pre ferred embodiment of the present invention, this continuous belt is driven through an intermittent clutch drive in synchronization with the sewing apparatus with which it is associated. It must be understood here that in every case where the novel apparatus to be described within this specification is associated with sewing equipment or apparatus, it is contemplated that my invention has equal or superior applicability to fusing or sealing equipment as well.

The present invention fulfills the above objects and overcomes limitations and disadvantages of prior art solutions to problems by providing, according to one aspect of the present invention, a novel system made up of novel components for automatically producing fabric products such as, without limitation, belt loops. In a preferred embodiment, fabric is sequentially handled and worked as follows: scrap fabrics, such as from a cutting room, are advanced by means ofa top assembly to a trimming assembly in which excess portions of the fabric are removed by a rotary cutting assembly from a predetermined or selected fabric width; the trimmed fabric is further advanced by means of the top feed assembly from the trimming assembly to a folder which, in turn, causes the trimmed fabric to assume a predetermined or selected folded configuration in which a buckram or other stiffening medium has been inserted; the trimmed, stiffened and folded fabric is thereafter advanced by means of the top feed assembly to the foot and needles of a sewing machine which, in turn, binds or sews the folded fabric such that its configuration is maintained; a pulling or puller assembly which is driven independently of the sewing machine accepts the sewn fabric from the needles of the sewing machine, taking up any slack therein, and yet further both measures and advances the sewn fabric toward a slicing or cutting assembly; the pulling or puller assembly just described is programmable in the sense that it is capable of selectively generating a signal, such as an electrical impulse, in response to a predetermined angular displacement of component rollers thereof which, by having a given diameter, are capable of metering the lengths of fabric passing therethrough; the metered or measured fabric travels from the pulling or puller assembly to a slicing or cutting assembly which is responsive to the signal generated by the pulling or puller assembly and which combines a cutting and shear action to sever the metered fabric at predetermined or selected intervals, thereby generating lengths of belt loops to be attached to garments.

This invention will be more clearly understood from the following description of specific Bmb 0f the invention, together with the accompanying drawings. wherein similar reference characters denote similar elements throughout the several views, and in which:

FIG. I is a fragmentary elevational view of a system and its apparatus according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional elevational view illustrating the top feed assembly shown In FIG. 1 in more detail;

FIG. 3 is a sectional view illustrating the cross section of finished products, such as belt loop material, produced by the apparatus shown in FIG. 1;

FIG. 4 is a fragmentary sectional elevational view looking along the line IV-IV of FIG. 1',

FIG. 5 is a side elevational view of the apparatus illustrated in FIG. 1;

FIG. 6 is a fragmentary elevational view looking along the line VIVI of FIG. 5;

FIG. 7 is an enlarged elevational view illustrating the slicing or cutting assembly according to the present invention.

Referring now in more detail to the drawings, for the convenience of the reader the following description of the invention will be segregated into specific subjects which are novel in themselves and which, while being intercooperative, are capable of providing distinct functions.

FIG. 1 illustrates in a fragmentary elevational view an overall system 10 according to this invention. System 10 comprises a number of sub-assemblies, each of which is adapted to be secured to and cooperate with a sewing machine, designated reference character 16 in FIG. 1, or a fusing or sealing machine. In FIG. I, and throughout the several views, these sub-assemblies include a rotary trimming assembly 11, a trimming drive assembly 12, a top feed assembly 13, a feed drive assembly 14, a folder 15, a programmable puller assem bly 17, and a cutting assembly 18.

Each of the assemblies just mentioned are capable of being rapidly, inexpensively and efficiently adapted to one or more of a variety of existing sewing machines, as well as equipment for fusing or sealing fabric prod ucts of the type to be described here. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and merely for purposes of illustration, system 10 will be described in terms of producing belt loops.

Sewing machine 16 may be of a construction well known in the art, and including a hollow head 19 which carries a needle 20 and a presser-foot 21. The sewing machine 16 illustrated in FIG. I is of the flat bed type having a die cast frame 202 overhung to support the sewing head 19. Frame 22 is integral with the flat work supporting base 23 of the machine.

Looking now at the rotary trimming assembly 11 in more detail, a supporting platform 24 is integral with or secured to a mounting plate 25 which, in turn, is removably secured such as by bolts (not shown) to the frame proper of sewing machine 16. Supporting platform 24 is formed with a substantially vertical or upstanding flange portion 26. Flange portion 26 is formed with a pair of elongated slots 27 and 28, each of which is counterbored in cross section so as to be capable of removably receiving socket-headed bolts. Supporting platform 24 has an L-shaped cross section with vertical flange portion 26 joining a substantially horizontal leg 29. Leg 29 is supported by mounting plate 25.

Two rotary blade assemblies 30 and 31, shown in FIGS. 1 and 5, are modular in form and are, in turn, supported upon movable base blocks 32 and 33, respectively. Base blocks 32 and 33 sit upon upper surfaces of leg 29 of supporting platform 24 and are each formed with a pair of threaded openings. each of which is adapted to receive a socket-head bolt 35. As can best be seen in FIG. I, tightening of bolts 35 against an internal web 36 will secure and position base blocks 32 and 33 in place. Loosening of bolts 35 will enagle the sliding movement of blocks 32 and 33 toward or away from one another, thereby facilitating a varying of the widths of a fabric 37 being worked by rotary trimming assembly 1 1.

An upstanding post 38 is secured to an outer surface of base block 32 by a bolt 39. Similarly, a post 40 is secured at its lower end to base block 33 by a bolt 41. At their upper ends, posts 38 and 40, respectively, support bearings 42 and 43 within which shafts 44 are journalled. Shafts 44 (not shown in FIG. 5), in turn, support sprocket wheels 45 and 46 around which toothed belts 47 and 48 pass for imparting rotary motion from trimming drive assembly 12, as will be more fully explained below.

Spacers 49 and 50 separate sprocket wheels 45 and 46 from rotary cutting blades 51 and 52, respectively. Spacers 49 and 50 may also, in a preferred embodiment, comprise a mounting hub for each of blades 51 and 52.

Adjusting screws 53 and 54, best seen in FIGS. 1 and 4, provide a means by which rotary cutting blades 51 and 52 can be biased toward and into various degrees of contact with stationary cutting blades 55 and 56, respectively. Stationary cutting blades 55 and 56 are removably supported by and mounted to vertical flanges 57 and 58 forming an integral part of base blocks 32 and 33, respectively, by means of bolts 59.

In operation, rotary assembly 11 accepts fabric 37 of varying widths, and, upon feeding of this fabric 37 by top feed assembly 13 to rotary and stationary cutting blades 51, 52, 55 and 56, trimming assembly 11 removes excess portions of fabric 37 from a predetermined width that is established by the positioning and disposition of base blocks 32 and 33 upon leg 29 of sup porting platform 24. Thus we see a modular rotary cutting assembly upon each of base blocks 32 and 33, respectively, each of which is capable of independent movement toward and from the other.

Conventional cutters or trimming apparatus known to the art include knives which exhibit a rocking-type motion and which are driven off of the sewing machine motor itself. Adjustments or assembly require a taking apart of the machine to which these conventional rocking-type knives are secured. Similarly, oscillating types of knife motion are known. However, nothing known to the art includes rotary blades that exhibit scissortype actions similar to the novel apparatus presented by the present invention.

My invention provides the rotary blade concept just described wherein rotary cutting blades 51 and 52 cut fabric 37 in a scissor-type action with stationary cutting blades 55 and 56, respectively. With given speeds of cloth feed, the rotary trimming assembly 11 of the present invention rotates at approximately one-fourth of fabric feed speeds. A notch is cut by each of rotary blades 51 and 52 in cooperation with stationary cutting blades 55 and 56, respectively, the length of which is long enough or sufficient for the equivalent of two feeds of the fabric or cloth 37. In a model that has worked successfully according to the present invention, one such cut by a rotary blade assembly per two feeds of cloth or fabric 37 has been realized.

Each of blade assemblies 30 and 31 of rotary trimming assembly 11 is modular in form and is driven through a single belt, such as already described for toothed belts 47 and 48 shown in FIGS. 1, 4 and 5. An adjustable knife arrangement is provided by rotary trimming assembly 11. Belt loop widths of between 5/16 of an inch and three-fourths of an inch have been attainable with conventional cutting apparatus known to the prior art. With the present invention, namely, rotary trimming assembly 11, belt loop widths of between 5/16 of an inch and 1 /2 inches are comfortably achieved and can be varied within a matter of seconds by a simple adjustment.

The advantages of rotary trimming assembly 11 are quite significant. More than twice the cutting speeds known to the art are achievable. Thus, while prior art stitching capabilities are approximately 2500 stitches per minute, despite the capability of 5500 stitches per minute of the machines, to which attachments are secured, the present invention easily enables 4500 stitches per minute or more. The fact that there are less parts with the present invention than in cases known to the art provides a less expensive assembly with no need to change sizes. The rotary trimming assembly 11 is safer than cutting assemblies known to the art. Once again, the fact that the blade assemblies 30 and 31 are mounted upon modular units provides for sealed installations that take less than one-tenth the time known to the art and provide a varying cutting width capability unknown to the art.

The present invention contemplates a predetermined rake between rotary cutting blade 51 and 52 and their respective stationary cutting blades 55 and 56. In this way, the sharpened edges 60 (FIG. 4) of rotary cutting blades 51 and 52 provide a scissor-type cutting action that facilitates the handling of thicker fabric 37 at speeds greater and unknown to the art.

Rotary trimming assembly 11 is driven through toothed belts 47 and 48 by means of trimming device assembly 12. Very simple, it is known that the main shaft of a sewing machine, such as that designated reference character 16 in FIGS. 1 and 5, revolves at a rate of one revolution per stitch. Those familiar with conventional sewing machines recognize that this is apparent by revolving the enlarged flanged handle 61 normally available to the user to provide a means by which a stitch may be manually made. Handle 61 is best illustrated in FIG. 5 of the instant drawings.

Trimming drive assembly 12 includes an elongated and continuously driven timing belt spline or sprocket member 62, which is formed with longitudinally extending teeth capable of friction-ally engaging the teeth of toothed belts 47 and 48 already described. By virtue of engagement of belts 47 and 48 with both timing spline 62 and their respective sprocket wheels 45 and 46, rotary motion is imparted to rotary cutting blades 51 and 52. Timing spline 62 rotates at a rate ofone-half revolution per stitch in a preferred embodiment of my invention. It is within the scope of this invention to provide a rotational speed of timing spline 62 that is onequarter of a revolution per stitch if the cut made by either of rotary cutting blades 51 and 52 is long enough for two stitches. Of course, it should be obvious that other combinations of speeds can be provided by the adjustment of the rotational speeds of timing spline 62 in relation to the length of the cuts made by rotary cutting blades 51 and 52.

Rotary movement of timing spline 62 is facilitated through gearing contained within a gear box 63 and shown as FIG. 5. A suitable bevel or spur-type gear affixed to a shaft 64 integral with and extending from timing spline 62 will impart rotary movement to timing spline 62 as a result of the automotive transmission of forces from the main sewing machine shaft through gear box 63 and to such a gear (not shown)v Other suit able and operative gearing arrangements are contemplated by the present invention and may be easily provided by one skilled in the art.

In the preferred form of the invention shown in FIG. 1, timing spline 62 is easily supported in space relationship from and above mounting plate 25 by means of an end bracket 65 formed with an outwardly extending flange 66 through which a conventional bolt 67 passes into threaded engagement with a threaded hole formed in the upper surfaces of mounting plate 25. End bracket 65 preferably includes bearing means to support timing spline 62 for relatively frictionless rotary movement. A similar type of bracket 65 may be provided at the opposite end of timing spline 62 and its associated shaft 64.

Having described the means of which fabric 37 is trimmed by rotary trimming assembly 11 which, in turn, is driven by trimming drive assembly 12, let us now turn to the means by which fabric 37 is actually advanced to rotary trimming assembly 11 and thereafter through folder to the needle of sewing machine 16. A top feed assembly 13 is provided by the present invention and includes a tractor belt arrangement which advances material from the operators position to the presser-foot 21 of sewing machine 16. Fabric 37 is engaged by a belt 68 formed with teeth or friction surfaces 69 along substantially the entire outer periphery thereof. Belt 68 is carried by two idler pulleys 70 and 71, best seen in FIGS. 1 and 2, and is driven sprocket or pulley 72 journailed with and supported by feed housing 73. Belt 68 is preferably continuous and engages the fabric it is advancing over almost one-half but certainly greater than one-third its length. In many cases. fabric 37 is sought to be stiffened via the addition of a buckram 74 or other stiffening material. In such cases, buckram 74 may be added from a roll in a continuous manner to and beneath fabric 37, as may best be seen in FIG. 2. Thus, top feed assembly 13 through its continuous belt 68 advances both the fabric 37 and its associated buckram 74 along the top surfaces of supporting base 23 from the position of the operator to and from the position of rotary trimming assembly 11 where excess material 75 (FIG. I) is removed. thereafter to and through a folder 15, and to presser-foot 21 associated with sewing machine 16.

In the preferred embodiment of the present invention shown in FIG. 1 and also shown in FIG. 2 in enlarged form, a spacer block 76 is positioned within the closed space defined by continuous belt 68 such that lower surfaces 77 of spacer block 76 engage and position the disposition of belt 68 at its lower extremity of travel. Thus, spacer block 76 is capable of keeping continuous belt 68 in contact with fabric 37 which is being advanced by this belt, thereby increasing and insuring frictional engagement of the belt 68 with the material such that the material is properly guided and advanced. Spacer block 76 is shown in FIG. 2 to be removably secured to feed housing 73 by means of conventional fasteners 78. Since the inner surfaces fo continuous belt 68 are not roughened or toothed. there is no significant friction or heat build-up between lower surfaces 78 of spacer block 76 and belt 68.

It is contemplated by the present invention to increase or decrease the tension within continuous belt 68 so to increase its wear life and provide the optimum advancing characteristics of the entire top feed assembly 13. Accordingly, a knurled knob 79 that can be easily manipulated by the fingers of the user forms the head of a threaded bolt 80 which, in turn, is supported by and extends into threaded engagement with and through a threaded opening formed within upstanding flange 81 of feed housing 73. In cases where idler pulley is supported by flange 81 or parts integral therewith, and where idler pully 71 is supported by the body offeed housing 73 shown in FIG. 2, clockwise movement of knurled-headed bolt will cause a separation of flange 81 from the remainder of feed housing 73, thereby increasing the distance between the center lines of idler pulleys 70 and 71. This will cause an increase in the tension within continuous belt 68 and will further provide increased contact pressures between the teeth 69 on continuous belt 68 and the associated teeth of drive sprocket 72. It should be obvious that counterclockwise or reverse adjustments of knurledheaded bolt 80 will provide the opposite phenomenon.

Another significant feature of the present invention resides in the ability of the user to separate or remove the top feed assembly 13 from the fabric 37 being advance, or, for that matter, to remove top feed assembly 13 from the surface on which fabric 37 and any associated buckram 74 are to be placed. This is accomplished by means of a handle 82 shown in both solid and phantom outline in FIG. 6. FIG. 1 illustrates the two extreme positions obtainable by top feed assembly 13, namely, the withdrawn position shown in phantom outline while the solid-line representation of top feed assembly 13 in FIG. 1 best illustrates the feed assembly in the position in which it is engaging fabric 37 and any associated buckram 74. In order to cause the removal or withdrawal of top feed assembly 13 from the work it is engaging, handle 82 (FIG. 6) can be easily rotated in the clockwise direction shown in FIG. 6 from the position shown in solid outline to that shown in phantom outline. Rotation of handle 82 is made possible by its mounting upon a journalled support pin 83, the axis of which coincides with the axis of rotation of handle 82. Handle 82 is formed with a cam surface 84 which extends between two limit protrusions 85 and 86. Handle 82 is supported by means of support pin 83 from upstanding post 87 which, in turn, is supported by mounting plate 25.

Feed housing 73 includes an elongated substantially rectangular cross-sectional housing member 88 extends at a rearward end thereof from upstanding post 87 to the driven drive sprocket 72 at its forward end. Feed housing 73 and its associated housing member 88 are pivotally supported at the uppermost section of post 87 for rotary movement between the positions shown in FIG. 1 about an axis of rotation coincident with the longitudinal axis of bolt member 89, shown in FIG. 6. Upstanding post 87 is formed with flanges and 91 between which the rearward end of housing member 88 depends. Bolt member 89 extends through flange 90, thereafter through housing member 88 or portions thereof disposed between flanges 90 and 91, and thereafter into threaded engagement into a threaded opening formed within flange 91 of upstanding post 87. A pin 92 (shown in FIGS. 5 and 6) is secured integrally with and extends from the portion of housing member 88 disposed between post flanges 90 and 91. It is against pin 92 that the cam surface 84 acts so as to pivot the entire feed housing 73 and its associated housing member 88 about the axis of bolt member 89. Thus, as seen in full solid line in FIG. 6, upon rotation of handle 82 in a clockwise direction from the position shown in solid lines to that shown in phantom lines, cam surface 84 with its increasing distances from the axis of support pin 83 about which handle 82 rotates, urges pin 92 upwardly as shown such that a moment about the axis of bolt member 89 is created. This moment or eccentric force about the axis of bolt member 89 results in the raising of the forward end of feed housing 73 away from the platform on which fabric 37 and any associated buckram is to be placed. The position of feed housing 73 shown in phantom outline in FIG. can be maintained by reason of the recess immediately adjacent limit protrusion 86 (FIG, 6) Should the user desire a return of feed housing 73 to the position shown in full lines in FIG. 5, rotation of handle 82 will accomplish this by moving same in a clockwise direction thereby permitting feed housing 73 to drop to its original position due to its eccentric weight. By varying the configuration or cam outline of cam surface 84, one can achieve varying motions of feed housing 73 with the present invention. In a preferred embodiment of this invention, as shown in FIGS. 5 and 6, the existence and placement of limit and protrusions 85 and 86 positively control the upper and lower limits of travel of feed housing 73 and its associated housing member 88 such that reliable movement is achieved in every case where it is desired to raise or lower the feed housing.

Top feed assembly 13 is cooperatively driven by feed drive assembly 14. While I have developed various ways of imparting rotary movement to drive sprocket 72 in order to accomplish the advancing motion facilitated by the use of a continuous belt 68, for purposes of illustration l have shown a preferred embodiment of feed drive assembly 14 in FIG. 5. The reader will note that gear box 63 is equipped with an output shaft 93 to which an adjustable connecting rod 94 is secured. The length of connecting rod 94 may be varied by simple manipulation of a turnbuckle-type threaded assembly 95 in a manner not unknown to the mechanical art. Connecting rod 94 extends from the aforesaid output shaft 93 to and into pivotal cooperative connection with a lower end 96 of a crank arm 97. Crank arm 97, in turn, extends from its lower end 96 to a ratcheted clutch 98 capable of controlling oscillating movement imparted by crank arm 97 and transmitting this oscillatory movement through housing member 88 of feed housing 73 to drive sprocket 72, as will be described.

An anti-reverse ratchet clutch & bearing assembly 99 disposed within the rearward end of housing member 88 cooperates with ratcheted clutch 98 so as to prevent any backlash or rotary slipping movement in a direction other than desired. The clutch and bearing assembly 99 may be anchored to upstanding support post 88 in other applications, where desired. The combination of clutch 98 and anti-reverse ratchet clutch & bearing assembly 99 makes possible a relatively precise transition of rotary movement from the oscillating crank arm 97, and this rotary movement is transmitted to drive sprocket 72.

The rotary movement transmitted to drive sprocket 72 is both synchronized with respect to the movement of the main shaft of sewing machine 16 and is yet further intermittent so as to cooperate with the intermittent movement of fabric 37 under the influence of the feeddog (not shown) associated with sewing machine 16. This intermittent rotary movement of drive sprocket 72 imparted to it by means of the feed drive assembly 14 just described is imparted to continuous belt 68 such that belt 68 in contact with fabric 37 and any associated buckram 74 will move in synchronized and intermittent advancing motion into cooperative engagement with the feeddog associated with sewing machine 16.

Fabric 37 and any associated buckram 74 is folded according to the present invention prior to being sewn with the aid of needle 20 of sewing machine 16. As has already been stated previously, it is within the scope of my invention to provide all of the apparatus and attachments described here for use with a fusing or sealing type machine or equipment, as opposed to a sewing machine. Again, however, for purposes of illustration only, my invention will be described in terms of an association with a sewing machine 16.

The folding of fabric 37 and any associated buckram 74 takes place with the aid of a folder 15. After being trimmed by means of rotary trimming assembly 11, top feed assembly 13 advances the trimmed fabric 37 to and into engagement with folder 15. Thus, a strip of predetermined fabric width enters recesses within folder 15 for folding this strip about any associated buckram 74 into belt loop form. Top feed assembly 13 thereafter directs the folded strip together with any associated buckram 74 to the stitching mechanism of sewing machine 16 for stitching the belt loop,

It is not my intention in the present patent applica tion and specification to describe a novel folder l5. Suffice it to say that the present invention is capable of use with folders of the type shown in US. Pat. Nos. 2,585,307 and 2,646,759, which have been granted previously to Joseph Galkin.

Upon leaving folder 15, the folded strip is sewn and emerges in a cross section form best shown in FIG. 3. FIG. 3 illustrates a buckram 74 within and about which fabric 37 has been folded such that edges 100 and 101 offabric 37 defining the points which have been cut by rotary trimming assembly 11 and are disposed in butting relationship with one another.

For purposes of illustration the trimmed, folded and sewn belt loop material has been designated reference character 102 in FIG. 3. After leaving the sewing operation which resulted in its configuration designated ref erence character 102, belt loop material 102 is pulled away from the sewing operation by means of a programmable puller assembly 17. Puller assembly 17 not only takes up any slack induced in belt loop material 102 after the sewing operation, but further provides an automatic and constant synchronization effect with the associated sewing or fusing apparatus by providing a torque that is high enough to take up any slack material on the sewing or fusing output side, but such torque is controlled so as not to be high enough in magnitude to overcome the gripping force of the presser-foot 21 against the fabric being worked. Programmable puller assembly 17 is driven independently of the main drive shaft of sewing machine 16, which is a marked departure from methods and apparatus known to the prior art.

Conventional pullers are synchronized with a feed mechanism that is rather complex and cumbersome and which, in turn, acts through a gear train or an intermittent clutch driver Examples of such fabric puller arrangements, which themselves provided advances in the art at the time they were conceived may best be seen and are illustrated in U. S. Pat. Nos. 2,692,568 and 2,706,457, both patents having been granted to Joseph Galkin.

The present invention utilizes the concept of a roller driven at slightly higher surface speed than the maxi mum output speeds of conventional sewing machines. This roller is driven by either a torque motor or a torque limiting clutch mechanism. The result is the aforesaid automatic synchronization-effect with the sewing or fusing machine with which the programmable puller assembly is associated.

Another important feature is provided by the present invention is the ability of puller assembly 17 to shut off or disconnect power on the puller roll during actual cutting periods associated with slicing or cutting belt loop material such as that designated reference character 102 in FIGS. 1 and 3. Thus, belt loop material will be able to develop slack before reaching the feed roll instead of being forced against a down positioned cutting blade. This is a serious existing problem in the art where continuous running soft goods are cut at high speeds. The present invention overcomes the limitations and disadvantages of prior art attempts to solve this problem.

Yet another feature of the programmable puller assembly 17 unknown to conventional apparatus is its ability to predetermine the length of belt loop material to be severed, by means of a program tape or chain which is readily exchanged by the user. A projection or hole on the tape or chain signals a simple electrical or pneumatic circuit to both cut off power to the puller roll and operate a cutting assembly 18 (to be described in more detail below). Similarly, there is a feedback of information or a signal from cutting assembly 18 such that the completion of its cycle will enable power to resume flow to the roll associated with the programmable puller assembly 17 such that material is once again advanced.

Looking now in a bit more detail at the drawings, FIG. 1 best illustrates components of programmable puller assembly 17, wherein a driven roller 103 is shown to be partially encircled by a program chain or tape 104. Roller 103 is driven by a torque motor (not shown) in a preferred embodiment of this invention, although it is within the scope of the present invention to provide a torque limiting clutch associated with a more conventional electrical motor. Program chain 104 is removable and interchangeable with one or more of a series of chains of predetermined or selected lengths. The chain 104 is of a continuous configuration and is formed with a protrusion 105 that extends outwardly from one or more of the component links thereof. The length of program chain 104 is selected so as to be directly proportional or corresponding to the lengths of belt loop material desired to be severed according to the present invention by cutting assembly 18. Thus, allowing for the thickness of program chain or tape 104, the length of the inner circumference of the chain or tapes closed configuration will correspond proportionately to the intervals at which cutting assembly 18 will serve belt loop material 102. Roller 103 provided with a friction surface 106 which engagesthe underside of belt loop material 102 as it comes into contact with programmable puller assembly 17. While program chain 104 has been described as thus, namely,

a chain or a tape, it is within the scope of the present invention to provide a closed paper loop or other material formed in a continuous loop of predetermined length, and it is also contemplated by my invention to provide an opening within the chain, tape or material loop to provide the identical function as that provided by protrusion 105.

An idler pulley 107 merely keeps program chain 104 in the configuration shown in FIG. 1 and provides as its main function a means of guiding program chain 104 in an untangled manner. An idler pulley such as that designated reference character 107 is not necessary for the programmable puller assembly 17 to operate.

Upper surfaces of belt loop material 102 are contacted by a pressure roller 108 located above roller 103 and biased downwardly under adjustable and controlled spring pressure by means of a spring 109 of the helical type. Pressure roller 108 is supported for linear and rotary movement within a roller housing 110 formed with vertically extending slots 111 through which a roller pin 112 carrying pressure roller 108 extends. The longitudinal ends of vertically extending slots 111 define the upward and downward limits of travel of pressure roller 108. An adjusting knob 113 comprising the head of a bolt may be turned by the user to adjust the disposition or location of the upper end of helical spring 109, thereby varying the pressure of pressure roll 108 against the upper surfaces of belt loop material 102. This adjustment of pressure, of course, controls the gripping action between pressure roller 108 and its associated roller 103 between which belt loop material 102 passes. Other means of adjusting this gripping pressure or force is contemplated and is to be considered as coming within the scope of the present invention.

FIG. 1 illustrates a pair of switch assemblies 114 and 115 associated with programmable puller assembly 17. Switch assembly 114 is supported for pivotal movement about a mounting pin 116 and is biased by a leaf spring towards and into the path of protrusion 105. During movement, protrusion 105 will travel along its continuous path until it engages switch assembly 114 whereupon the forces of protrusion 105 will cause switch assembly 114 to pivot in a clockwise direction as shown in FIG. 1 to the position shown in phantom outline until protrusion 105 passes the location of switch assembly 114, whereupon switch assembly 114 will be biased to its rest position under the influence of the aforesaid leaf spring. Switch assembly 114 is formed with a downwardly extending contact tail 117. Switch assembly 115 is preferably of the microswitch type and includes an actuation button 118 that is located in the path of contact tail 117 when the latter pivots under the influence of protrusion 105. It is within the scope of this invention for switch assembly 114 to be no more than a mechanical element possessing no electrical characteristics and situated merely to cause actuation and deactuation of switch assembly 115. In the latter case, leads 119 associated with switch assembly 115 are interconnected (not shown) with suitable circuitry associated with cutting assembly 18.

Programmable puller assembly 17 is supported by and mounted upon a support housing 120 removably secured, such as by bolts 121, to a platform associated with sewing machine 16 or a fusing or sealing machine (not shown).

FIGS. 1 and 7 best illustrate cutting assembly 18. A blade holder bracket 122 removably supports a stationary cutting blade 123. Stationary cutting blade 123 is secured to bracket 122 by means of a plurality of fasteners, designated reference character 124. A movable cutting blade 125 is supported in pivotal fashion by first and second link members 126 and 127 at first and sec ond pivot points 128 and 129, respectively. Link members 126 and 127 are also pivotally secured to blade holder bracket 122 or a member integral therewith at third and fourth pivot points 130 and 131. By varying the individual lengths of link members 126 and 127, or more specifically the distances between pivot points 128 and 130, or 129 and 131, the angle between movable cutting blade 125 and stationary cutting blade 123 may be varied a predetermined or selected magnitude. A solenoid 132 having a core rod 133 extending to and in engagement with a lower extension 134 of first link member 126, imparts clockwise rotary movement to link member 126 about pivot point 130 against the tensile biasing forces of helical spring 135 tending to move link member 126 in a counterclockwise direction about pivot point 130. Helical spring 135 is secured at its leftmost end as shown in FIG. 7 to extension 134 of link member 126, and at its rightmost extremity to blade holder bracket 122 or a stationary element integral therewith. Solenoid 132 is electrically interconnected with leads 119 of switch assembly 115, such that, upon actuation, core rod 133 will be drawn to the left toward the outer windings of solenoid 132, thereby forcing extension 134 of link number 126 to the left in a clockwise direction about the point 130. This movement, in turn, will cause movable blade 125 to engage stationary blade 123 at a constant angle in a combination scissor and shear cutting motion, possibly best defined as a slicing shear action. By arranging the motion of movable cutting blade 125 as part of a four-bar linkage, a relatively simple construction unknown to the art combines both shearing and slicing. This motion, as arranged, overcomes the shifting tendency of the work, such as fabric, which in conventional cutting apparatus tends to move away from the point at which cutting blades engage one another. Thus, the effect of slicing while shearing reduces the required force to operate the knife or to operate the movable cutting blade 125. Belleville or washer-type springs will insure a constant contact of movable blade 125 with stationary cutting blade 123 at the cutting point which automatically moves along the stationary blade. This scissor-type effect results in self-sharpening.

The advantages of the cutting assembly 18 unknown to the art include an overcoming of disadvantages of three basic types of knives conventionally known. Conventional scissor-type knives requires relatively high operating forces due to a change in the cutting angle. These scissor-type knives further cause material that is being cut to move sideways due to this change in the angle. In the present invention, the angle between movable cutting blade 125 and stationary cutting blade 123 remains constant as a result of the four-bar linkage arrangement shown in FIG. 7.

Another conventional type of knife known to the art is the shear-type device which is expensive to build, requires relatively high forces to operate and, as in the scissor-type knives, causes work or fabric being cut to shift due to the change in the shear angle.

Yet another type of knife known to the art is a slicing-type which may be either a rotary knife or a reciprocating straight knife. These knives are difficult to guard for safety purposes and are not reliable in that they require constant and excessive sharpening.

Looking once again to FIGS. 1 and 7, as protrusion travels in a counterclockwise direction as the result of the movement of program chain 104, protrusion 105 in operation will come into contact with switch assembly 114 and will cause same to pivot in a clockwise direction about mounting pin 116. This clockwise pivoting of switch assembly 114 will result in the contacting of contact tail 117 with actuation button 118 of switch assembly 115. Actuation of switch assembly stops the input of power to roller 103 of programmable puller assembly 17, and simultaneously actuates solenoid 132 such that the slicing and shearing action of blades and 123 of cutting assembly 118 is initiated. Once this slicing and shearing is accomplished, with the result that a finite and predetermined or selected length of belt loop material 102 is cut from the continuous length being fed to cutting assembly 18, the cut belt loop (designated 102A in FIG. 1 for the convenience of the reader) drops through a predetermined point and the power previously prevented from reaching roller 103 once again resumes its flow to roller 103 with the result that program chain 104 once again continues to travel along its path. This cutting operation in response to a signal from the programmable puller assembly 17 repeats itself once every revolution of projection 105 along its path.

The present invention contemplates the use of programmable puller assembly 17 together with cutting assembly 18 in applications other than for use with sewing equipment. For example, it is contemplated by this invention that assemblies 17 and 18 be combined to provide a dispenser capable of dispensing or furnishing predetermined or selected lengths of belt loop material in response to a signal. This signal may be generated by a foot pedal of an operator or user who desires such a length of belt loop material, however, other applications are both anticipated and considered by this description.

Various departures from the exact embodiments just described also fall within the scope of this invention. For example, while a timing spline 62 has been described as the means by which sprocket wheels 45 and 46 of rotary trimming assembly 11 are driven, it is also contemplated that individual sprocket wheels be provided upon timing spline 62 which are movable to accommodate the movement of sprocket wheels 45 and 46. Similarly, it is contemplated that protrusion 105 of programmable puller assembly 17 be mechanically linked to cutting assembly 18 such that once belt loop material is severed by cutting assembly 18, the switching mechanisms can be automatically released.

The advantages of the various assemblies such as cutting assembly 18 can be endlessly expounded upon. For example, it must be emphasized that the slicing and shearing actions exhibited by cutting assembly 18 requires considerably less effort than the guillotine and standard scissortype devices require. A positive control of the angle between the movable and stationary cutting blades 125 and 123 is precise as a result of the four-bar linkage arrangement. Cutting assembly 18 does not limit the user to any specific width of material to be cut. There is no need for close tolerances and thus the costs of this assembly is relatively small. No bear ings are required and it is also possible to reverse the movable cutting blade 125 so as to provide the same with two cuttings edges. There is no set" required of the cutting blades because of the spring action capable of being used with this assembly.

The embodiments of the invention, particularly disclosed here are presented merely as examples of the invention. Other embodiments, forms and modifications of the invention coming within the proper scope of the appended claims will. of course, readily suggest themselves to those skilled in the art.

What is claimed is:

1. Fabric trimming apparatus for use with sewing machines, or the like, comprising, in combination: first and second support blocks movably supported upon a base platform, said support blocks disposed in spaced relationship with respect to one another and being formed with upwardly extending and second projections, respectively; first and second stationary cutting blades removably secured to said first and second projections, respectively; first and second rotary cutting blades supported by first and second journalled shafts and cooperatively engaging said first and second stationary cutting blades, respectively; first and second sprocket means carried by said first and second shafts for independently driving said first and second rotary cutting blades; first and second adjustment means for independently controlling contact pressure between said first and second pairs of rotary and stationary cutting blades, respectively; and positioning means for selectively varying the distance between said first and second support blocks, thereby varying the width of fabric to be trimmed thereby.

2. Apparatus according to claim 1, further compris' ing a top feed assembly capable of positively advancing said material to, through and from said trimming means.

3. Apparatus according to claim 2, wherein a top feed assembly comprises a substantially flexible continuous belt member formed with a plurality of outer projecting surfaces adapted to frictionally engage said fabric, said belt member being movable such that a portion of said projecting surfaces in engagement with said fabric travels in the desired direction of fabric advancement,

4. Apparatus according to claim 3, wherein said belt member contacts fabric over a third of its length during use, thereby providing superior guiding and advancement qualities.

5. Apparatus according to claim 3, wherein said top feed assembly is disposed above the plane of fabric being advanced by it and including means for retracting portions of the top feed assembly from the fabric to permit its removal or adjustment.

6. Apparatus according to claim 5, wherein said top feed assembly further comprises a plurality of roller members about which said belt member extends in frictional engagement therewith, one of said roller members comprising a drive roller for influencing the movement of said belt member.

7. Apparatus according to claim 6, further compris ing a spacer member disposed within a closed loop configuration of said belt member and adapted to both sep arate otherwise juxtaposed portions of the belt member as well as to bias said belt member against said fabric.

8. Apparatus according to claim 7, further compris' ing clutch means for driving said top feed assembly, said clutch means including a gear train cooperatively interconnected with the driving mechanism of said sewing machine, a ratchet clutch driven by said gear train through an eccentric crank arm, a journalled antireverse ratchet clutch driven by said eccentrically driven clutch ratchet, said top feed assembly drive roller being interconnected with and driven by said clutch means.

9. Apparatus according to claim 8, wherein the movement of said belt member is intermittent and synchronized with movement of the sewing machine needle.

10. Fabric feeding and trimming apparatus for use with sewing machines, or the like, comprising: a trimming assembly having portions thereof disposed in a path of said fabric, said trimming assembly comprising at least one cutting edge movable in an arcuate path extending above and below a reference plane, said reference plane substantially coinciding with a surface for supporting said fabric, and a top feed assembly capable of positively contacting and advancing said fabric to, through and from said trimming assembly, said trimming assembly further comprising first and second support blocks movably supported on a base platform, said support blocks movably supported on a base platform, said support blocks disposed in spaced relationship with respect to one another and being formed with upwardly extending first and second projections, respectively', first and second stationary cutting blades removably secured to said first and second projections, respectively; first and second rotary cutting blades supported by first and second journalled shafts and cooperatively engaging said first and second stationary cutting blades, respectively; first and second sprocket means carried by said first and second shafts for inde pendently driving said first and second rotary cutting blades; first and second adjustment means for independently controlling contact pressure between said first and second pairs of rotary and stationary cutting blades, respectively; and positioning means for selectively varying the distance between said first and second support blocks, theregy varying the width of fabric to be trimmed thereby 11. Apparatus according to claim 10, wherein said top feed assembly comprises a substantially flexible continuous belt member formed with a plurality of outer projecting surfaces adapted to frictionally engage said fabric, said belt member being movable such that a portion of said projecting surfaces in engagement with said fabric travels in the desired direction of fabric advancement.

12. Apparatus according to claim 11, wherein said belt member contacts fabric over a third of its length during use, thereby providing superior guiding and advancement qualities.

13. Apparatus according to claim 12, wherein said top feed assembly is disposed above the plane of fabric being advanced by it and including means for retracting portions of the top feed assembly from the fabric to permit its removal or adjustment.

14. Apparatus according to claim 13, wherein said top feed assembly further comprises a plurality of roller members about which said belt member extends in frictional engagement therewith. one of said roller members comprising a drive roller for influencing the movement of said belt member.

15. Apparatus according to claim 14, futher comprising a spacer member disposed within a closed loop configuration of said belt member and adapted to both separate otherwise juxtaposed portions of the belt member as well as to bias said belt member against said fabric.

16. Apparatus according to claim 15, further comprising clutch means for driving said top feed assembly, said clutch means including a gear train cooperatively interconnected with the driving mechanism of said sewing machine, a ratchet clutch driven by said gear train through an eccentric crank arm, a journalled anti reverse ratchet clutch driven by said eccentrically driven clutch ratchet, said top feed assembly drive roller being interconnected with and driven by said clutch means.

17. Apparatus according to claim 16, wherein the movement of said belt member is intermittent and synchronized with movement of the sewing machine needle.

l8. Trimming apparatus for use with fabric sewing machines having a fabric feed drive mechanism capable of feeding fabric along a reference sewing line, or the like, comprising, in combination: at least one support member movably supported upon a base platform, said support member being formed with an upwardly extending projection; a stationary cutting blade secured to said projection; a rotary cutting blade supported by ajournalled shaft and cooperatively engaging said stationary cutting blade; drive means connected to said shaft for driving said rotary cutting blade independent of the fabric feed drive of the sewing machine; spring means for urging said rotary cutting blade toward and against said stationary cutting blade; a positioning means for selectively varying the position of said rotary cutting blade with respect to said reference line, thereby enabling a varying of the width of fabric to be trimmed thereby; and means for maintaining contact as between rotary and stationary blades.

19. Apparatus according to claim 18, wherein said means for maintaining contact includes at least one stationary cutting blade having a preselected width such that the distance from said stationary cutting blade to said reference sewing line is directly proportional to the distance of said rotary cutting blade to said same reference sewing line.

20. Apparatus according to claim 19, wherein said stationary cutting blade includes one of a number of such stationary cutting blades having respective widths corresponding to the width of fabric to be trimmed.

21. Apparatus according to claim 18, further comprising a top feed assembly capable of positively contacting and advancing said fabric to, through and from the point of said fabric trimming.

22. Apparatus according to claim 21, wherein said top feed assembly comprises a substantially flexible continuous belt member formed with a plurality of outer projecting surfaces adapted to frictionally engage said fabric, said belt member being movable such that a portion of said projecting surfaces in engagement with said fabric travels in the desired direction of fabric advancement.

23. Apparatus according to claim 22, wherein said belt member contacts fabric over a third of its length during use, thereby providing superior guiding and advancement qualtities.

24. Apparatus according to claim 23, wherein said top feed assembly is disposed above the plane of fabric being advanced by it and including means for retracting portions of the top feed assembly from the fabric to permit its removal or adjustment.

25. Apparatus according to claim 24, wherein said top feed assembly further comprises a plurality of roller members about which said belt member extends in frictional engagement therewith, one of said roller members comprising a drive roller for influencing the movement of said belt member.

26. Apparatus according to claim 25, further comprising a spacer member disposed within a closed loop configuration of said belt member and adapted to both separate otherwise juxtaposed portions of the belt member as well as to bias said belt member against said fabric.

27. Apparatus according to claim 26, further comprising clutch means for driving said top feed assembly, said clutch means including a gear train cooperatively interconnected with the driving mechanism of said sewing machine, a ratchet clutch driven by said gear train through an eccentric crank arm, a journalled antireverse ratchet clutch driven by said eccentrically driven clutch ratchet, said top feed assembly drive roller being interconnected with and driven by said clutch means.

28. Apparatus according to claim 27, wherein the movement of said belt member is intermittent and synchronized with the movement of the sewing machine needle. 

1. Fabric trimming apparatus for use with sewing machines, or the like, comprising, in combination: first and second support blocks movably supported upon a base platform, said support blocks disposed in spaced relationship with respect to one another and being formed with upwardly extending and second projections, respectively; first and second stationary cutting blades removably secured to said first and second projections, respectively; first and second rotary cutting blades supported by first and second journalled shafts and cooperatively engaging said first and second stationary cutting blades, respectively; first and second sprocket means carried by said first and second shafts for independently driving said first and second rotary cutting blades; first and second adjustment means for independently controlling contact pressure between said first and second pairs of rotary and stationary cutting blades, respectively; and positioning means fOr selectively varying the distance between said first and second support blocks, thereby varying the width of fabric to be trimmed thereby.
 1. Fabric trimming apparatus for use with sewing machines, or the like, comprising, in combination: first and second support blocks movably supported upon a base platform, said support blocks disposed in spaced relationship with respect to one another and being formed with upwardly extending and second projections, respectively; first and second stationary cutting blades removably secured to said first and second projections, respectively; first and second rotary cutting blades supported by first and second journalled shafts and cooperatively engaging said first and second stationary cutting blades, respectively; first and second sprocket means carried by said first and second shafts for independently driving said first and second rotary cutting blades; first and second adjustment means for independently controlling contact pressure between said first and second pairs of rotary and stationary cutting blades, respectively; and positioning means fOr selectively varying the distance between said first and second support blocks, thereby varying the width of fabric to be trimmed thereby.
 2. Apparatus according to claim 1, further comprising a top feed assembly capable of positively advancing said material to, through and from said trimming means.
 3. Apparatus according to claim 2, wherein a top feed assembly comprises a substantially flexible continuous belt member formed with a plurality of outer projecting surfaces adapted to frictionally engage said fabric, said belt member being movable such that a portion of said projecting surfaces in engagement with said fabric travels in the desired direction of fabric advancement.
 4. Apparatus according to claim 3, wherein said belt member contacts fabric over a third of its length during use, thereby providing superior guiding and advancement qualities.
 5. Apparatus according to claim 3, wherein said top feed assembly is disposed above the plane of fabric being advanced by it and including means for retracting portions of the top feed assembly from the fabric to permit its removal or adjustment.
 6. Apparatus according to claim 5, wherein said top feed assembly further comprises a plurality of roller members about which said belt member extends in frictional engagement therewith, one of said roller members comprising a drive roller for influencing the movement of said belt member.
 7. Apparatus according to claim 6, further comprising a spacer member disposed within a closed loop configuration of said belt member and adapted to both separate otherwise juxtaposed portions of the belt member as well as to bias said belt member against said fabric.
 8. Apparatus according to claim 7, further comprising clutch means for driving said top feed assembly, said clutch means including a gear train cooperatively interconnected with the driving mechanism of said sewing machine, a ratchet clutch driven by said gear train through an eccentric crank arm, a journalled anti-reverse ratchet clutch driven by said eccentrically driven clutch ratchet, said top feed assembly drive roller being interconnected with and driven by said clutch means.
 9. apparatus according to claim 8, wherein the movement of said belt member is intermittent and synchronized with movement of the sewing machine needle.
 10. Fabric feeding and trimming apparatus for use with sewing machines, or the like, comprising: a trimming assembly having portions thereof disposed in a path of said fabric, said trimming assembly comprising at least one cutting edge movable in an arcuate path extending above and below a reference plane, said reference plane substantially coinciding with a surface for supporting said fabric, and a top feed assembly capable of positively contacting and advancing said fabric to, through and from said trimming assembly, said trimming assembly further comprising first and second support blocks movably supported on a base platform, said support blocks movably supported on a base platform, said support blocks disposed in spaced relationship with respect to one another and being formed with upwardly extending first and second projections, respectively; first and second stationary cutting blades removably secured to said first and second projections, respectively; first and second rotary cutting blades supported by first and second journalled shafts and cooperatively engaging said first and second stationary cutting blades, respectively; first and second sprocket means carried by said first and second shafts for independently driving said first and second rotary cutting blades; first and second adjustment means for independently controlling contact pressure between said first and second pairs of rotary and stationary cutting blades, respectively; and positioning means for selectively varying the distance between said first and second support blocks, theregy varying the width of fabric to be trimmed thereby.
 11. Apparatus according to claim 10, wherein said top feed assembly comprisEs a substantially flexible continuous belt member formed with a plurality of outer projecting surfaces adapted to frictionally engage said fabric, said belt member being movable such that a portion of said projecting surfaces in engagement with said fabric travels in the desired direction of fabric advancement.
 12. Apparatus according to claim 11, wherein said belt member contacts fabric over a third of its length during use, thereby providing superior guiding and advancement qualities.
 13. Apparatus according to claim 12, wherein said top feed assembly is disposed above the plane of fabric being advanced by it and including means for retracting portions of the top feed assembly from the fabric to permit its removal or adjustment.
 14. Apparatus according to claim 13, wherein said top feed assembly further comprises a plurality of roller members about which said belt member extends in frictional engagement therewith, one of said roller members comprising a drive roller for influencing the movement of said belt member.
 15. Apparatus according to claim 14, futher comprising a spacer member disposed within a closed loop configuration of said belt member and adapted to both separate otherwise juxtaposed portions of the belt member as well as to bias said belt member against said fabric.
 16. Apparatus according to claim 15, further comprising clutch means for driving said top feed assembly, said clutch means including a gear train cooperatively interconnected with the driving mechanism of said sewing machine, a ratchet clutch driven by said gear train through an eccentric crank arm, a journalled anti-reverse ratchet clutch driven by said eccentrically driven clutch ratchet, said top feed assembly drive roller being interconnected with and driven by said clutch means.
 17. Apparatus according to claim 16, wherein the movement of said belt member is intermittent and synchronized with movement of the sewing machine needle.
 18. Trimming apparatus for use with fabric sewing machines having a fabric feed drive mechanism capable of feeding fabric along a reference sewing line, or the like, comprising, in combination: at least one support member movably supported upon a base platform, said support member being formed with an upwardly extending projection; a stationary cutting blade secured to said projection; a rotary cutting blade supported by a journalled shaft and cooperatively engaging said stationary cutting blade; drive means connected to said shaft for driving said rotary cutting blade independent of the fabric feed drive of the sewing machine; spring means for urging said rotary cutting blade toward and against said stationary cutting blade; a positioning means for selectively varying the position of said rotary cutting blade with respect to said reference line, thereby enabling a varying of the width of fabric to be trimmed thereby; and means for maintaining contact as between rotary and stationary blades.
 19. Apparatus according to claim 18, wherein said means for maintaining contact includes at least one stationary cutting blade having a preselected width such that the distance from said stationary cutting blade to said reference sewing line is directly proportional to the distance of said rotary cutting blade to said same reference sewing line.
 20. Apparatus according to claim 19, wherein said stationary cutting blade includes one of a number of such stationary cutting blades having respective widths corresponding to the width of fabric to be trimmed.
 21. Apparatus according to claim 18, further comprising a top feed assembly capable of positively contacting and advancing said fabric to, through and from the point of said fabric trimming.
 22. Apparatus according to claim 21, wherein said top feed assembly comprises a substantially flexible continuous belt member formed with a plurality of outer projecting surfaces adapted to frictionally engage said fabric, said belt member being movable such that a portion of said projecting surfaces in engageMent with said fabric travels in the desired direction of fabric advancement.
 23. Apparatus according to claim 22, wherein said belt member contacts fabric over a third of its length during use, thereby providing superior guiding and advancement qualtities.
 24. Apparatus according to claim 23, wherein said top feed assembly is disposed above the plane of fabric being advanced by it and including means for retracting portions of the top feed assembly from the fabric to permit its removal or adjustment.
 25. Apparatus according to claim 24, wherein said top feed assembly further comprises a plurality of roller members about which said belt member extends in frictional engagement therewith, one of said roller members comprising a drive roller for influencing the movement of said belt member.
 26. Apparatus according to claim 25, further comprising a spacer member disposed within a closed loop configuration of said belt member and adapted to both separate otherwise juxtaposed portions of the belt member as well as to bias said belt member against said fabric.
 27. Apparatus according to claim 26, further comprising clutch means for driving said top feed assembly, said clutch means including a gear train cooperatively interconnected with the driving mechanism of said sewing machine, a ratchet clutch driven by said gear train through an eccentric crank arm, a journalled anti-reverse ratchet clutch driven by said eccentrically driven clutch ratchet, said top feed assembly drive roller being interconnected with and driven by said clutch means. 